Every time I visit Bali, I’m struck not just by its landscapes, but by its deep, living spirituality. It’s woven into everyday life in the way people give offerings, the way temples stand in the middle of villages, and even in the rhythm of time itself. One of the most beautiful expressions of this spiritual life is Galungan, a Balinese holiday that feels unlike anything else I’ve experienced.
At its heart, Galungan is about balance, ancestry, and the triumph of good over evil. But for those lucky enough to be in Bali when it happens, it’s much more than a religious celebration it’s a time when the island transforms, both visually and emotionally.
What is Galungan?
Galungan is a major Balinese Hindu festival that happens every 210 days, following the Pawukon calendar (a traditional Balinese system). It marks the time when ancestral spirits return to Earth to visit their families. Balinese people believe that during this period, the spirits of the deceased come back home, and it’s the duty of the living to welcome, honour, and celebrate them.
The festival also symbolizes the victory of Dharma (good) over Adharma (evil). In many ways, it reminds me of other global holidays like Día de los Muertos or All Saints’ Day but with uniquely Balinese layers of meaning, colour, and ritual.
Galungan lasts for 10 days, and it ends with another important ceremony called Kuningan, when the spirits return to the heavens.
What Happens During Galungan?
The build-up to Galungan begins several days before the actual day of celebration. The whole island slowly begins to change. Villages become livelier. People get busy preparing offerings, cleaning their homes, and visiting temples.
One of the most iconic sights is the penjor tall, graceful bamboo poles decorated with young coconut leaves, rice, flowers, and fruits. These are installed in front of every home, arching beautifully over the streets like natural gateways. Walking down a street lined with penjors is like walking through a sacred forest made by hand. They’re not just decorations they’re offerings to the gods and a symbol of gratitude for life and abundance.
The day of Galungan itself is spent in prayer, ceremony, and family gatherings. People dress in traditional Balinese attire women in lace kebayas and men in sarongs and sashes and bring beautifully arranged offerings to family temples. The smell of incense fills the air,
gamelan music echoes in the background, and everywhere you go, there’s a deep sense of calm joy and spiritual focus.
Food, Family & Offerings
Like many holidays around the world, food plays a big role in Galungan. Families prepare traditional dishes, especially lawar (a mix of vegetables, coconut, and minced meat with spices) and babi guling (spit-roasted pig). These are often shared in large family gatherings after prayers and rituals.
But perhaps the most important “preparation” is spiritual. People prepare offerings called banten small woven trays filled with flowers, rice, incense, and symbolic items. These are placed not just in temples but in front of houses, on shrines, even in cars or shops. Each offering is a small message to the gods and spirits, a way of saying: “You are welcome here.”
Galungan is very much a family holiday, but not only in the modern sense. It’s also about connecting with ancestors, maintaining a spiritual link between generations. For the Balinese, family includes both the living and the dead, and Galungan is a reminder that those who have passed are still present in daily life.
Myth, Meaning & Tradition
The deeper meaning behind Galungan lies in the cosmic battle between good and evil. According to Balinese Hindu belief, the forces of good are embodied by the god Dharma, while the forces of chaos and disorder are represented by Adharma.
The story goes that during Galungan, these two forces come into conflict but ultimately, Dharma prevails. This isn’t just a myth; it’s a reminder of the constant inner struggle within each of us. Galungan is a time to reflect, purify, and realign with what is right.
The festival also features the mythical creature Barong, a lion-like guardian spirit that represents good. In the days following Galungan, Barong dances are performed in villages, with dancers in elaborate costumes visiting homes and temples to bless the spaces and drive away negative energy.
Kuningan: The Closing Ritual
Ten days after Galungan comes Kuningan, which brings the festival to a close. It’s believed that on this day, the visiting spirits return to their world. The ceremonies are simpler, but no less meaningful. Yellow rice is a central dish the word kuning means yellow symbolising prosperity, purity, and gratitude.
On Kuningan, the penjors are still standing, but many are taken down after the ceremonies. There’s a bittersweet feeling in the air a mix of peace, renewal, and a quiet farewell to the spirits.
Experiencing Galungan as a Visitor
If you ever happen to be in Bali during Galungan, consider it a gift. It’s a chance to witness a deeply spiritual moment in the life of the island. While tourists aren’t usually involved in the private family rituals, locals are often happy to explain the customs or even invite respectful visitors to join in certain ceremonies.
It’s important, of course, to be respectful dress modestly, follow temple etiquette, and always ask before entering a ceremony or taking photos. What’s most valuable is not just seeing the rituals, but feeling the atmosphere the sense of connection, peace, and community that fills the island during this time.
A Festival of Spirit and Balance
Galungan isn’t just about tradition it’s about balance, both in the universe and within ourselves. It’s a time when the Balinese reflect on what it means to live well, to honour their ancestors, and to keep the forces of chaos in check with love, discipline, and faith.
More than a festival, Galungan is a beautiful reminder that even in a modern world, spiritual connection still matters that taking time to pause, to honour where we come from, and to celebrate good over evil is something timeless and universal.